Bouldering in the "in form park" in Oberstdorf

Text: Harald Röker

 

General

In the bouldering sector of the gym there are more than 100 pre-defined boulder problems to be found. The different problems are defined by the colour of the holds..

The existing difficulties range from Fb 2a to Fb 8a+.

To give an idea which difficulty you can expect for a certain problem, all problems are graded in 7 categories and marked with respective coloured labels on the start hold:

Category 1 (Yellow):   F     (facile = easy) - up to Fb 3c

Category 2 (Green):    PD   (peu difficile = few difficult) - Fb 4a to Fb 4c

Category 3 (Orange):  AD   (assez difficile = fairly difficult) - Fb 5a to Fb 5c+

Category 4 (Blue):       D     (difficile = difficult) - Fb 6a to 6b

Category 5 (Red):       TD   (très difficile = very difficult) - Fb 6b+ to 6c+

Category 6 (Grey):      ED   (extrêmement difficile = extremely difficult) - Fb 7a to 7b

Category 7 (White):    ED+   (extrêmement difficile plus = extremely difficult plus) - Fb 7b+ and harder

The problems of each category have numbers which are written on the coloured label on the start holds. The top-hold has also a coloured label with this number.

With a few exceptions all problems are sit starts. The definition of a sit start says that the back is the last part of the body to leave the pad. The problems end at the hold marked with the coloured label and the category number of the problem (almost always a jug). In a few cases there are also 2 finishing holds which will be noted on the label of the start. For a correct ascent hold on firm to the finishing hold(s) for about 2 seconds with both hands.

If you should not be familiar with the FB-bouldergrades here is a link to our comparing UIAA-FB-grade-table.

 

The current state of distribution of difficulties  (updated 02.11.2013)

Category F      - 15 problems

Category PD   - 17 problems

Category AD   - 25 problems

Category D     - 22 problems

Category TD   - 12 problems

Category ED   -   8 problems

Category ED+ -   7 problems

_______________________

Total:              106 problems

 

Detailed grading

The suggestion of the grades which is written on the starting label should give an idea on which problems you can warm up and which problems are good to work on. These suggestions are (hopefully) coherent for a person which is equally good in all climbing styles and techniques and with a height of about 165 to 175 cm.

We tried to be close to the original Fontainebleau grades, so do not expect "soft" grades which can be found in some of the newer alpine boulderareas.

I think the absolute grade is completely irrelevant, only the grades of the problems compared to each other should be coherent. Just check out what is still "easy" for you and where it starts to be rally demanding. Many problems are a bit more technical than usual and will probably not be done the most easy way on the first go. So the given grade is also a little hint if you worked out the "trick" of the problem or if you should eventually try out what could be done easier....

 

Here the detailed listing of the current amount of problems in the different grades:

 

F

PD

AD

D

TD

ED

ED+

Fb 2a  - 1

Fb 2c  - 1

Fb 3a  - 3

Fb 3b  - 4

Fb 3c  - 6

Fb 4a   - 6

Fb 4b   - 5

Fb 4c  - 6

Fb 5a    - 4

Fb 5b    - 6

Fb 5b+  - 1

  Fb 5c    - 11

Fb 5c+  - 3

Fb 6a   - 9

Fb 6a+ - 8

Fb 6b   - 4

Jump (Fb 5..6) - 1

Fb 6b+ - 4

Fb 6c   - 4

Fb 6c+ - 4

Fb 7a   - 3

Fb 7a+  - 3

Fb 7b    - 2

Fb 7b+  - 2

Fb 7c    - 1

Fb 7c+  - 1

Fb 8a    - 1

Fb 8a+  - 1

 

 morpho = common abbreviation in bouldering for the French expression "morphologique", which means that the grade of the problem is very height dependent. Such problems are marked with a "from...to-grade", for example Fb 5..6