Engelberg

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The famous Fuchsstein in the sector "Stäfeli"

Content

General information

Sector Parkplatz
Sector Agent Orange

Sector Stäfeli
Sector Halfpipe

Alpine flora spring awakening

Impressive mountain scenery around the Engelberg-valley

 

Situation:            Close to Engelberg.
Climate:              Different sectors at an altitude between 1200 to 1400 m. Some sectors in the woods, some on a free alpine meadow.

                            Snow in winter. Avalanches are possible also in spring!

Best season:       Depending on the avalanche situation the season starts in April/May and ends with the first big snow in November/December.

                            The best conditions are normally in spring and autumn or with foehn situation when a strong dry wind is blowing.

Rock:                   Mainly gneiss/granite, sometimes limestone, a bit marl  

Where to stay:    Camping "Eienwäldli" in Engelberg, Alpe "Stäfeli" in the middle of the area

Crashpad-rental: At the Alpe "Stäfeli" a crashpad is for rent. For reservation: Tel.+41 (0)41 - 637 45 11 ; Rental fee per day: CHF 10.-

 

Topo:                   swiss Bloc °1 (GEBRO Verlag), more info and order

 

Other info:   www.boulderberg.com (webpage of Albert [Bärti] Wuersch)

 

Boulder problems
About 350 boulder problems 3 - 8b/b+
  3 -     5+ :    90
6a -   6c+ :  113
7a -   7c+ :    95
8a - 8b(+) :   10

       Others:  ~39

 

Top 10 - Problems:

Sidewinder Fb 7c+/8a trav [R. Schweizer] ***

Cling & Paste Fb 7c+/8a [J. Mohle] *****

Full Pipe Fb 8a [H. Röker] **

Smash Mouth Fb 8a [A. Wuersch] ****

Frauenfeind Fb 8a [D. Gisler] *****

Sister Line Fb 8a [D. Gisler] **

Kiana Fb 8a+ [D. Gisler] ****

Cows in the Bikinis Fb 8a+ [A. Ondra] ****

Vivai Fb 8a+/b [H. Röker] ****

Mc Twist Fb 8b/b+ [H. Röker] *****

 

Access to the upper sectors beginning of May:

Spring in the valley, in the background the snowy Schlossberg

 


Sector Parkplatz                                                                                                         (Content)

 

From a huge avalanche in spring 2017 many trees in this sector snapped and the one or two boulders are blocked by branches and trunks.

In July 2017 the clearing work was full in process, so one may reckon that the boulders will be full accessible again quite soon.

The good news is: The forest is a lot thinner now and dries much faster than before.

 

Bründler

Videos:

Killer Kante (Fb 6b/c)

© Harald Röker

Kiana (Fb 8a+)

© Harald Röker

Vivai (Fb 8a+/b) [1st ascent]

© Harald Röker

 

Newly developed boulders

2016 most problems on a gneiss-boulder already cleaned some years ago have been finished. There are 5 lines with sitstart now, 2 of these are also doable as nice standing starts.

The difficulty of the problems here is between Fb 5 and Fb 7c+.

 

Videos:

Sitcom (~Fb 7b)

[1st ascent]

© Harald Röker

Hookah (~Fb 7c+)

[1st ascent]

© Harald Röker

 

Directly neighoured to this boulder and next to the creek 2 more boulders have been developed in autumn 2016. Some of these problams can only be done when the water level is low.

The grades here are in the range between Fb 3 and Fb 7a+

 


Sector Agent Orange                                                                                                 (Content)

 

From a huge avalanche in spring 2017 many trees in this sector snapped and in July 2017 most boulders have still been blocked by branches and trunks.

Probably also here the clearing work will begin soon.

The good news is: The forest is a lot thinner now and dries much faster than before.

 


Sector Stäfeli                                                                                                                (Content)

 

View from Fuchsstein to the alpine inn "Stäfeli"

  

Dächli

The gravel which the flood left back on this boulder has been removed by Micha and Hary in summer 2016, so all problems here are climbable again.

Spring 2017: An avalanche and a big flood washed the gravel from the base of the problems, so all starts are now perfectly accessible again. Furthermore the deep ditch on the backside of the boulder is filled and the landing is completely flat now; 6 new lines in the grades 4 to ~7a have been developed here recently.

 

Down under

A big boulder fell down and hit this boulder in winter/spring 2016. "Jimothy", "New Zealand" and "Around the world" are not climbable any more.

"Dingo" is still doable with a slightly different start, "All Blacks" is a bit more difficult now.

 

Frauenblock

Video:

Frauenfeind (Fb 8a)

© Harald Röker

 

Boulder no. 19

Excellent problems in the 6th grade in the middle of sector "Stäfeli"

 

Spring 2017: Likely by the air pressure from an avalanche this boulder rolled over!

 

Pixies

In summer 2016 the creek changed its bed and now heavy rainfalls cause floodings around this boulder.

Gravel filled the cavities which have been at the starts of the problems, most problems are not doable any more.

 

Fuchsstein

On Fuchsstein

The great classic

"Lieblingslaster Eitelkeit" Fb 7c/c+

 

Videos:

Chip'n Tales (Fb 7b+)

© Harald Röker

Cows in the Bikinis (Fb 8a+)

© Harald Röker

 


Sector Halpipe                                                                                                                (Content)

 

Halfpipe

Video:

Mc Twist (Fb 8b/b+)  [1st ascent]

© Harald Röker