- Planet der Affen (planet of the apes)
Access:
From the parking in the beginning like to the sector Roadside. After about
10 minutes at a prominent "stone-man"
turn right like to the sector Fortress resp. Fortress Boulders. About 5 minutes
later you come to a fork in the path. Follow the trail towards the Fortress,
which leads to the right and uphill through boulders ("stone-men"). About
200 m further the pathturns to the right. Turn to the left here. 30 m further
you come to boulder A directly next to the path. Boulder E is lying a bit above
on a plateau. On the edge is standing a "stone-man".
The boulder problems:
Almost all problems are sitting starts and most are athletic.
The landing is good, but a crashpad is useful. The problems have been marked
with chalk-arrows. SD = Sitting start
Grading:
All gradings are a rough impression of the difficulty. We did not concern
too much about the grades while looking for all these new problems. Later we
tried to give numbers.
Have Fun!
Boulder A
1 Start on edge and out over the roof. SD, 6b+
2 Rockrat
Like 1,but traverse to the right aręte und take this to the
top. SD, 6c+
Boulder B
1 Up the left aręte. SD, 6b
Boulder C
1 Left through the wall 4
2 Up in the middle 3
3 Start on the right corner SD, 4
Boulder D
1 Over overhang and with jugs to the top. SD, 5+
2 Like 1, only harder. SD, 6c
3 Affentanz
Lip of the roof on the left edge. Campusing or hook on
the right.
SD, 7a
Boulder E
1 Easy through the wall. SD 4
2 First overhanging on jugs, then into slab. SD,
6a
3 Fun with jugs SD, 5
4 Duelfer-moves to jug up to the left. SD, 6b
5 Hard start directly out of the hole, exit like 4. SD,
6c+
6 Start right on a small grotto. SD, 5-
7 Start lying. Right hand low in the roof on a jug. SD, 5+
8 Like 7, at the edge of the roof traverse to the left. The upper jugs are
not used. SD, 6c
Boulder F
1 Duelfer up the left aręte and traverse to the right on slopers.
SD, 6a+
2 Straigh up in the wall. 5
3 2 m right of 2. 5
4 Mantle over the lip of the roof. SD, 5+
5 On the right edge. SD, 6c
Boulder G
1 Over the bulge to the top. SD, 6a
Boulder H
1 Overhanging Duelfering. SD, 6a+
2 Guano apes
From 2 edges to the right to jug and overhanging up. SD, 7a
Boulder I
1 Start on the edge opposite of boulder B. SD, 5
Boulder K
1 Over the overhang. SD, 5+
2 See 1. SD, 5
3 Traverse far to the right around the corner into the gorge. SD, 6b
Boulder L
1 Over the roof and completely up. The rock-plate aside is not used as foothold. SD, 6b
2 Over the roof. SD, 6b
3 Over the roof. SD, 6a+
4 Start in the gully on edges und climb up the overhanging wall. SD, 6a
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| Bärbel Hertner in ???? | Bärbel Hertner in ????? | Karsten Oelze in ???? |