General information cencerning the rock conditions in winter

First, the Allgäu is no winter area! In most winters the conditions are good until middle/end of December. Then significant amounts of snow and low temperatures don't allow climbing on the wet and icy walls any more.

Depending on the winter and the snow situation the season starts again in March/April/Mai.

Most limestone areas are a bit higher up in the mountains and anyway not accessible anymore, the boulders are hidden under the snow. In the sandstone and conglomerate areas should not be climbed for the following reasons:

The Sandstone is softened by the humidity. Attempts to dry it and intense use of chalk destoys the surface of the rock permanently.

Similar with conglomerate. Additionally the humidity weakens the material between the pebbles and these are in high danger to break out.

Don't boulder or climb when the rock is humid!

Actual Rock Condition

June 2013


The many weeks lasting period of permanent wet rock seems to be over now. Thanks to the high temperatures almost all crags are dry now and finally the whole range of rock of the Allgäu can be enjoyed again!

April 2013


After some nice, sunny days and only little very light rain on Monday the rock conditions are quite good - with respect to the time of the year.


Finally spring is here! The winter was lasting almost 5 months, but now most crags are climbable again. Only the walls very high up in the mountains are still in the deep snow....

August 2012


Finally a long period of fine weather and as result all crags are dry.


Because of the intensive rainfall of the last 2 days some of the less steep climbing areas like "Neues Tiefenbach" got wet in the most parts, but the cool temperatures and an excellent wind will dry the walls quickly.

As the forecast for the next days promises many sun-hours and almost no rain most crags will hopefully be dry and climbable in the next few days - should be simply perfect for your climbing holiday in the Allgäu.

 November 2011


Since week the weather is absolutely dry and sunny (most days even without fog) and so are all crags.

August 2011


All crags are dry.


The permanent rainshowers continue, locally very heavy. The maximum is half a day without rain at the moment and the forecast gives no hope that this will change a lot in the next days. At the moment at the Rottachberg about 80% of the routes are wet, about 10 routes are climbable if you don't mind slimy holds. Tiefenbach was completely wet on 1st of August and things will not have changed a lot there. Hinang though is surprisingly dry, at least the rock surface. The slabs of the Kellerwand look completely wet when looking up from the valley. All overhanging rocks and/or crags in the forest are wet, either the water is running into the walls from above or the rock is condensated or both.

Looking to the conditions of the climbing walls I am quite sure that most boulder crags are completely wet. Maybe there is a slight chance for the sandstone areas or free standing blocks to be dry.

July 2011


Rain, rain, rain, the bad weather does not stop. All is wet, probably for many days!

June 2011


Some days ago we had heavy rainfall folowed by humid/warm weather with strong wind from the east and from time to time thunderstroms/rainshowers.

The Rottachberg was permanently wet in the last days. Probably the same for all west facing conglomerate walls. Heavy rainfall around Sonthofen caused that the Starzlachklamm was completely wet too, only the east facing climbing area Tiefenbach has been dry until yesterday in most parts. Today we have slight rain and there is a certain risk that also the last dry climbing area becomes wet now.

April 2011


In a nutshell: All crags are dry

Even walls with a high tendency to seep are completely dry at the moment. Better conditions are hard to imagine!

August 2010


Rottachberg started to be dry yesterday but now the rain started again and the forecast is not good at all. All crags in the Allgäu are totally wet!


After repeated periods of extreme rainfall almost all crags in Allgäu are wet now. Only at the WiWoGiTruMu-Festung some single routes have been half dry and still climbable.

March 2010


Yesterday the Rottachberg was climbable, though some routes are still wet, mainly on the top. At Weißfels climbing was also possible. The situation at the bouldering walls is definitely worse. Except some problems (e.g.. Skalpell, Horribus at Parkplatzwand or Icebound at NePaPla-Wand) most problems are wet. But the sunny, dry day today with a nice west-wind helped probably a lot to improve the situation.

February 2010


The last days we had permanently over 0° C. Many walls are wet from the melting water. Water begins to seep from holes and cracks. Furthermore many walls are condensated from the warm and humid air. There are still dry spots, but the conditions are not too good at the moment.


It was cold long enough now so all crags are dry, just some icy holds!


The last 2 days it was warm and the snow started to melt, so water is running down on many walls.

January 2010


The crags are still dry. But parking and access could really get a problem now. Because of massive snowfall last week only official parkings are still accessible, all others are deeply covered with snow and the walk to the cliffs runs in general through snow up to the hips.


The Parkplatzwand is slightly more wet, though most of the wall is still dry. The Quellwand is a lot more wet compared with 2 days ago. North facing walls are still dry.


The Parkplatzwand and the Quellwand have been dry today, some icicles are hanging around and the one or two holds are icy. It is very likely that all other walls are dry too. The grip is not perfect though, I had the feeling that despite the surface of the rock is dry it was soaked with humidity which is melting now when you touch it with warm fingers. Therefore the holds get greasy very fast. At the base of the PPW the sun arrives a bit past 15h.


The Parkplatzwand, the NePaPla-Wand and some other crags are completely wet. Not one square-centimetre of dry rock there!

December 2009


We had a lot of snow already, then came heavy rain and warm weather, and everything was wet. The last 2 days we had snow, a lot of snow, now also in the valleys. I did not check the crags in the last 2 days, but with weather like this normally all is wet or icy now.

October 2009


Due to the long lasting period without rain in summer the heavy rainfall of the last days did not change the rock conditions in general. Only water running on the surface influenced low or vertical/slabby walls.

But in the meanwhile it is extremely cold, above 1000 m the snow is staying and even when doing bouldering the conditions are almost beyond climbable as the organism is still adjusted to summerly temperatures.

July 2009


After the last RCR end of June the situation did not change a lot. If there should luckily be a longer dry period free standing vertical walls are dry. Rottachberg is also climbable, only the overhanging starts of the very hard routes are still wet. In Starzlachklamm most of the existing routes have wet sections and Neues Tiefenbach is getting wet all the time for 1 or 2 days when it is raining (which happens every day).

June 2009


After the heavy rainfall of the last days and the now beginning condensation due to the warm and humid weather, as good as all crags are wet. At the Starzlachklamm as well as at the Rottachberg there can be found not one single dry route. Even Hinang which was quite dry in the left part yesterday is almost completely wet by condensation now. Mybe there can be found some dry routes on free standing and more vertical walls. The bouldering walls will be all wet as well. I don't expect a change of the situation in the next few days.


Because of the heavy rainfall yesterday and today most bouldering spots are wet. Most overhanging walls (Rottachberg, Starzlachklamm etc.) for climbing are still dry, but in some cracks the water already begins to seep. Only slightly overhanging walls have been almost completely wet today.


In the last days all cliffs have been dry.

April 2009


With the sunny and warm weather of the last days the snow is melting very fast. Almost all crags seem to be very dry at the moment. At least Rottachberg and Neues Tiefenbach offer good conditions.


Today all bouldering walls as well as all higher walls around Freidorf and Untermaiselstein have been condensated and completely wet.

March 2009


In the last weeks huge amounts of snow have been melting and therefore most walls have been wet for a long time. Thanks to the very windy and dry weather of the last days the situation changed significantly and yesterday many crags have already been in quite good condition. Nevertheless you will find the one or two wet or icy spots on some walls.

February 2009


Until yesterday we had a lot of snow but the access to most cliffs has still been possible. The parts of the walls without ice have been in good conditions. Today we have serious snowfalls and from now on the access to all cliffs will be possible only with ski or snow shoes.

January 2009


Thanks to the really dry and cold winter apart from some icy holds the crags have been extremely dry until yesterday. At the moment we have heavy snowfall, but if the temperatures don't rise too high, this will not change the conditions dramatically.

November 2008


Crags like the NePaPla-Wand or the Rechte obere Maiselwand and the Untere Maiselwand are dry in the main parts. Around cracks the walls are covered with ice. The Parkplatzwand is mainly wet and icy. The access pathes are in general covered with 10-30 cm of snow.


The winter is here with some cm of snow. Before the temperatures did fall we had heavy rainfall, therefore there will be only some special boulder problems which are dry and free of ice.


The two raindays last Wednesday and Thursday changed the conditions quite a bit. At the Parkplatzwand only some problems which are completely water resitstant are still dry and even some of those are wet. Other walls which get still a bit sun and where the water does not run over offer still good to very good conditions.


An extraordinary beautiful autumn with almost no rainfall allows climbing an almost all walls and boulders in the Allgäu area. But after cold nights and quite high temperatures during the day some walls tend to condensate and at some places the seeping water stripes do not dry.

October 2008


Though the last rainfalls and fog in the mornings the crags are extremely dry.

July 2008


The last weekend we had extremely heavy rainfall and during the last days the weather was very humid too. Therefore almost all crags are wet at the moment.


Despite some showers in the last days all crags are remarkable dry.

May 2008


Despite a thunderstorm on Sunday afternoon all crags are dry.


With this long lasting nice, dry, windy weather all crags are dry in the meanwhile.

April 2008


On Monday even the Parkplatzwand has been nearly dry. But now the winter is back with some cm of snow and the rock conditions will not be good for climbing and bouldering in the next few days.


A inspection yesterday showed, that most crags are wet, conglomerate as well as limestone. Nevertheless, some routes are in climbable conditions and also some free standing boulder spots should be dry. As most of the snow is gone, the rock conditions could improve a lot and very fast with some sunny days or wind.

March 2008


At the moment all conglomerate bouldering walls are wet. For Routeclimbing there are also almost no dry routes anymore.


Because of the strong winds blowing during the heavy rainfall, some walls are still dry. But in the meanwhile the winter is back in the Allgäu, so be prepared for icy-cold temperatures and some frozen parts on the walls.

February 2008


With the rainfall from Tuesday to Wednesday many cliffs started to seep directly.With the period of bad weather which begins today there won't stay many walls in climbable conditions.


On Wednesday the 20.02.2008 as good as all walls in Allgäu have been completely dry. The light rain in the night to the 21st has changed prospectively nothing. The forecast for the week end predicts spring-like weather. The bouldering conditions will prospectively be excellent and with a bit of sun also the conditions for climbing should be dream-like.

Oktober 2007


We have the first snow in Allgäu. The weather forecast says more snowfall for the next days....


Parkplatzwand, Maiselwände, Rockland, Tiefenbach and the boulders at Rottach are dry. All other cliffs and boulders prospectively too. At the moment the bouldering conditions are excellent.


The situation is a bit better in the meanwhile and most cliffs are generally dry. But because of the high humidity of the air and the often long lasting fog the conditions are not really good and all spots senstitive to humidity (especially in overhangs) are very wet.


Though the weather has been good the last days, all overhanging walls of conglomerate are completely wet. Completely means, there is not one dry problem e. g. at the Parkplatzwand. The Maiselwand is wet also. In the Starzlachklamm all overhanging routes are wet, all boulder problems too. Bouldering is possible on some freestanding boulders at Rottach, some limestone boulders are possible too. And I guess the conditions at Rottachberg are not really good too. As long as this warm weather without wind continues (condensation) the rock conditions will not change. And the prediction says fog in the morning for the next days!

September 2007


Despite some sunny days last weekend cliffs like the Parklplatzwand have been still extremely wet. After 60 hours constant rain until this afternoon all boulderspots will be flooded for at least 3-4 days, and the prediction for tomorrow says heavy rainfall. Cliffs like the Rottachberg will prospectively not be in climbable conditions too, at least on Saturday, but I guess that also on Sunday most climbs will be wet. And that's not all: the fact that the temperatures will rise from at the moment a bit above the freezing point almost up to 20°C will prospectively cause condensation of the rock.


The last days we had terrible rainfall in the Allgäu. All bouldering spots will be wet for at least 3-5 days. The overhanging climbing walls (Rottachberg, Starzlachklamm) will also be wet at least 2-3 days after the rainfall stops. It is also horrible cold (about 5° C) and the rain is mixed with snow sometimes.

August 2007


The Parkplatzwand was completely wet today. The Rottachberg was also entirely wet, only 2 baseclimb and the pilar of the Geisterstunde have been dry.


At the moment all cliffs are entirely wet. As the forecast predicts no improvement, the situation won't change for some days.

April 2007


Because of the long sunny period almost all cliffs and boulders ary dry.

March 2007


Despite the massive snowfall of the last week there are still some climbable crags. Here a short overview of the problems which have been dry today at the Parkplatzwand: Pango, High Density, Vollgas, Horribus, Skalpell, Herbi and Quaddel. With higher temperatures there could run water into the wall in the next days.


The period of good and dry weather of the last week was also good for the boulders and crags. Apart some very overhanging parts of the walls or some cracks almost all climbs and boulder problems are dry. We will see how long this will last (the weather forecast says, that the winter is coming back from Monday on). But if the temperatures stay low the conditions will not change a lot.

February 2007


Today the weather was excellent and cool, so the cliffs dried quite good. On the Obere Maiselwand and the Parkplatzwand some parts have been dry and climbable.

On the Quellwand even Crosstalk has been dry.

On the other walls the situation will be similar. Prospectively there are some whet walls in the Rocklands and some walls will be dry. In Rottach most boulders will be climbable.