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Mont Rouget

Apremont                                                    (Content)

In one week in November more than 30 new problems have been opened, most of them are sitting starts. They have been marked with chalk arrows and sometimes with chalk crosses on the starting holds.

Access: In Apremont drive past the small Restaurant in the forest and park on the first parking area on the left side. Walk almost straight into the area and go slightly to the left up the hill. The problems are in the area, where the red circuit has its numbers 21-27. For a better orientation, the red numbers 21, 22, 26, 27 are noted as R21, R22, R26 and R27 in the topo-map.

Parcours „Sitting Bull“
SD - SitDown, sitting start
rH  - right hand
lH  - left hand

   1                                     6a+     SD, Far move with undercling
   2                                     6b+     SD, small holds
   3                                       5+     SD, directly to the crack
   4                                        6a     SD, from the right to the crack
   5 Phénix                           7c+     SD, start on block with good sidepull
   6                                          5     no SD, slab
   7                                          5     no SD
   8                                        5+     SD
   9                                        6b     SD, overhanging nose
 10                                        6c     SD, rH side-undercling, arête, mantle out
 11                                        7a     SD, left of tree and to the left
 12                                        7a     SD, sloper-attack
 13                                        7b     SD, undercling to sloper, "sword", out
 14                                        7b     SD, start with both hands in big round hole
 15                                      6a+     SD, like a cave under a kind of ball
 16                                        5+     SD, start on stone-plate, to the left and up
 17                                        5+     SD, arête
 18 Centaure                       7b+     SD, out of hole, crimp to undercling, 2-finger pocket, crack
 19                                          5     SD, mantle
 20 Sitting Bull                       7c     SD, lH sloper, rH pinch, out and top out to the right
 21                                          4     no SD, slab
 22                                      6c+     SD, start with double-edge and foot-jam in crack
 23                                        6a     SD to orange 34, roof
 24                                        5+     SD, diheadral
 25                                         6a     SD, overhang next to the path
 26                                       6c+     SD, start on sidepull flake
 27 Projekt                                      SD possible from the left, then extremely hard
 28                                          6a     SD, mantle
 29                                        6c+     SD, arête directly, start both hands on starting hold
 30                                          6a     SD, arête
 31                                            4     SD
 32                                          6c     SD, many round side-holds and hooks
 33 Le Petit Phoque (Heuler) 7b+    SD, roof, with rH far on side-sloper
 34 Projekt                                       SD, both hands on edge and keep left
 35                                        7b?     SD, get off the ground is the problem
 36                                            5     SD
 37                                            5     SD, arête to the right and out
 38 Crazy Horse                   7b/c     SD on edge far to the right, to the left to crack-edge and out
Harald Röker
"Phénix" 7c+
Harald Röker
"Sitting Bull" 7c
Harald Röker
"Crazy Horse" 7b/c
Foto: Karsten Oelze
Harald Röker
"Crazy Horse" 7b/c
Foto: Karsten Oelze
Harald Röker
"Le Petit Phoque" 7b+
Foto: Karsten Oelze

95.2                                                                   (Content)

Here is a new sitting start on the boulder between the boulders of the red no. 16 and 17. If you walk from the 16 to the 17  the problem is on the wall to the left.
Captain Hook    7b+    SD, lH on sidepull, rH far on sloper, very sharp and tiny edge and out
Harald Röker
"Captain Hook" 7b+
Foto: Karsten Oelze


Mont Rouget                                                                   (Content)

Here a new sitting start can be found around the boulders on the hill where the water-canal "La Vanne" is. Next to an overhang there is a traverse and behind this a very overhanging boulder. The problem is on this overhang...
Menhir    8b/b+    SD, via undercling edges and out slightly to the right...
Harald Röker
"Menhir" 8b/b+ (Fontainebleau)
... ...


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