• Valie de los monges
(circuit "Edition 98")
• Creel - St. Rafael
(circuit "Fire of Life")
The rock quality here is very mixed, the volcanic tufa is very soft and some grains are could break and roll under the feet or fingers, but the brushed problems are in general solid.
Zugang: From Creel. If you are coming from the west to Creel, just before the town a road turns off to the right, which leads also to the Koa-Campground. But you have to turn right before the Camping and you drive into a park (1998 the price was $10 for adults and $5 for children). From the park entrance drive past the Valie de los Hongos, drive also past a cemetery and a missionary-station (to your right). In the following we counted 6 bridges, at least one of them made of concrete, and you will see rock towers everywhere and also some houses. 7 km from the park entrance you come to a fork in the road (some houses). The right road leads to a school. Continue on the left road 700 m to a house and park your vehicle close to it.
From here walk across an area surrounded by a fence. Walk through a gate in the fence towards the prominent rock towers. Leave a twin tower (one with a boulder on its top) with a boulder jammed in between far to the left and walk uphill directly left past a tower with a prominent boulder on its top and continue to the boulder problems a bit further.
The boulders are not easy to find, but if you have a "nose" for the rocks you will find the boulders with the right height and the quite solid surface.
Concering the grades:
Looking back to the grades we gave, I start to doubt, as there is existing
almost no grade 1 in Fontainebleau....
In general you can add something like 1-2 numbers, but the grading between
the problems there should be quite okay.
1 Horses for rent
2
2 Pollo loco
1
3 Piece of cake
2
4 Chicken ficken
2
5 Taco bell
2
6 Copperhead
2
7 Railroad Xing
1/2
8 El monje
3 Also sitting start possible
9 Cactus dancing
3 Traverse from right to left and up
10 Garbage
2
11 Temptation waits
3
12 Mr Avis
2 Traverse from left to right without using the ledge as footholds
13 Knifeblade
4
14 Hatcher Catcher
1
15 Huevo
1
16 Mad Mex
2
17 Scream of the snake 1
18 Los wochos
1
19 Mas turba 2
1
20 Hot Chili
4/5
21 Pulled over
1
22 Pena capital
2
23 The face
4 Sitting start, end at "face"
The volcanic tufa is iron-hard and pocketed, abolutely killer!
Access: From Creel take the Mex 77 for 7,5 km towards San Rafael. If you see the boulders, you know that you are right. On the left side there is a small parking possibility.
Concering the grading:
The same as for the circuit "Edition98"
Special marking:
- take hold with left hand
- take hold with right hand
- don't use this hold/foothold
- don't use holds/footholds beyond this line
1 Trick
2 Mantle
2 Tick
2 Mantle
3 Track
2 Mantle
4 Stairway to heaven
2
5 Riverside walk
7a
6 Fire is life
5
7 Frostbite
6a Startholds are marked
8 Fire & Ice
3
9 Easy to squeeze
2
10 Rage against the roof 6c+
11 Tower of Pisa
3
12 Fingerkiller
4 Sitting start, startholds are marked
13 Put it in a can
1/2
14 Highway to hell
2
15 Smoke it in a pipe
2
16 Sunny side down
2
17 Fool as a clown
2
18 Ride the rock
2
19 Smoke attack
1
20 Heart attack
1
21 Road to nowhere
3 Traverse from right to left and back again
22 Choco milk grande
1
23 Choco milk chico
1
24 Firestarter
7a/b Startholds are marked
25 Sopa de verduras
3
26 Vitamin "P"
5
27 Candyman
4
28 Sylvester
2/3
29 Speedy Gonzales
2
30 Fire gun
4 Sitting start
31 Save the best for last
6a Marked holds
32 Glory morning
7a+
33 Head away
5
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| Martin Schepers in "Firegun"
Foto: Harald Röker |