Mental preparation is already half the battle! Manuel (Manu) Oberfrank is concentrating for a serious try.
[Photo: Christoph Rupp] |
Manu crimping the small edges in "Flying Steps" Fb 8a/a+ [Photo: Christoph Rupp] |
Text: Harald Röker
Already in the last years Manu was able to do some hard problems, but again and again injuries destroyed the fitness. Then one day he decided that something has to change and he started a systematic training to strengthen his fingers... So since about Christmas Manu started his training, hard training, systematically and methodically. In March - still in the first training period - he succeeded to do some hard problems. In his home area, the Ostalb, Manu could do the first ascents of "One Man Show" (Fb 7c) and a bit later he managed to do the brilliant moves of "Final Destination" (Fb 7c/c+).In April, after 3 1/2 months of hard training, he found finally
the time again to climb on real rock outside of his home area.
This was Frankenjura where he could repeat right in one day "Fountain Head"
(Fb 8a). Highly motivated he made a short trip to Konstein two days
later and this time the problem where he got an injury of the little
finger in December had no chance. Therefore the name "Revenge" (Fb 8a trav.).
In really good shape he started for a 5-day-holiday-trip together
with his girl friend to the beautiful Algund in South Tyrol. Besides
hiking, biking and chilling he could solve some excellent problems,
each in only some tries: April showers bring may flowers... Regarding this impressive list of hard problems one should not
forget at all the fact that Manu does not spend his life exclusively
doing bouldering, but has a full day's schedule in the domestic
electric-service business. Therefore he finds the time for
his passion, the world of small boulders, almost only on Sundays! June... ...with his permanent
rain showers was really annoying probably for most excited climbers
and also Manu often went back home from the completely wet boulders
without having done one move. Nevertheless he pulled of the feat
to do the problem "Unterdruck"
(Fb 8a) in Franken on a day with such bad conditions.
In July Manu worked on some first ascents in the area Konstein close to where he lives. The results are "Hirnleiste" (Fb 7c+) and "LEGO bricks" (Fb 8a trav). But as the weather did not continue a lot better than it was in June, he decided to stop for some serious training during the summer months, which are much too hot for really hard moves anyway. One can be curious what the coming season will bring. On
the top of Manus wish-list are at least some visits in Allgäu
as he told me recently on the telephone....
Manu in "Steinpilz", Fb 8a+ [Photo: Christoph Rupp] |
A really acrobatic movement in "Bierbombe", Fb 8a [Photo: Axel Öland]
Manu in "World coming down", Fb 8a [Photo: Christoph Rupp]
"Wenn er fällt dann schreit er", Fb 7c+/8a [Photo: Christoph Rupp] |
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