Rememberance to times past: The river-crossing over the Rhine with a steel cable
News in Magic Wood: Online Update-Topo Avers
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Rememberance to times past: The river-crossing over the Rhine with a steel cable |
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Situation: Bernhardino-road exit Avers/Juf (about 40 km after Chur towards Bernhardino). Uphill into the Averstal towards Juf and Ferrera. After some kilometres a climbers-camping is on the right and left hand side, users of the camping can park here. Daily visitors should use the parking possibilities about 200 m down the valley at an old ruin (Schmelze).
Parking: Users of the camping at the climbers-camping. Daily visitors at the parking possibilities about 200 m down the valley at an old ruin (Schmelze).
Access: Since the year 2008 there is a new bridge across the river Rhine. The access path starts close to the climbers-camping, leads a bit down the hill, crosses the river on the new bridge and leads along the other side of the river directly to the sector "Block Bruno".
If you are staying in Ausserferrera you can take a bridge which crosses the river Rhine just a bit below the village Ausserferrera. You arrive directly in the sector "Kamel".
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The upper bridge |
Accomodation: Climbers-camping on the right and left roadside a bit before the tunnels before Ausserferrera (prices as of 2019: 11,50 CHF/EUR per person and night, vehicle 5 CHF/EUR, shower 4 CHF/EUR).
There is also the guest house "Generoso" (since June 2006) next to the street in Ausserferrera. For reservations contact the Gasthaus "Edelweiss" in Ausserferrera.
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(Now new restrooms have been established, the pics above show the old situation before 2017)
Climate: Situated on an east facing slope at an altitude of 1200 m. In winter some metres of snow
Rock: Granite.
Topos:
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Magic Wood - Bloc GEBRO Verlag, 3rd edition 04/2023 |
swiss Bloc °1 GEBRO Verlag, 5th edition 05/2023 |
The boulder problems
Block Bruno offers many super hard problems. Around this are also some worthwhile problems. Because of the close river this sector is often quite humid.
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Luis Gerhardt "Unendl. Geschichte 2" Fb 7c+/8a |
Kim Marschner trying "La Tarlouze" Fb 8a+ trav |
Kim Marschner "Unendliche Geschichte 1" Fb 8a+ trav |
Harald Röker "Starman" Fb 6a+ |
Harald Röker "Superhorny" Fb 6b |
Harald Röker "Massive Attack" Fb 8a+ |
Take care when there is heavy rainfall! The Rhine can rise very fast some metres, good to see here at the "Bruno-Block" (June 2016):
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Here is the ultra classic U-Boot traverse. The problems are a bit spread out.
In this sector there are mainly in the middle part many very, very high boulders with many death-defying Highballs on them.
This is the biggest sector with many excellent problems. In and around the "Darkness Cave" there is a concentration of very difficult problems.
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Markus Köcheler "Dinos don't Dynos" Fb 7b..b+ |
Markus Köcheler "U-Boot" Fb 6c trav |
Kim Marschner "Intermezzo" Fb 7c |
Kim Marschner "Minisex Roof" Fb 7c+/8a |
Harald Röker "Linserboulder" Fb 7a |
Along the upper part of the river and the neighbouring slope. Here are some excellent boulders to be found with problems such as "Neandertaler", "Abraxas", "Riverbed", "Grit de Luxe", "The Wizard", "Exclusive" and many more. With "Practice of the Wild" you will also find a super hard problem here.
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Kim Marschner "Riverbed" Fb 8a+/b |
Luis Gerhardt trying "The bomb is explosion" Fb 7c+/8a |
Manuel Oberfrank trying "The bomb is explosion" Fb 7c+/8a |
Harald Röker "Weißes Rauschen" Fb 6c+ |
Harald Röker "Abraxas" Fb 7a+ |
Manuel Oberfrank "Abraxas" Fb 7a+ |
Harald Röker "Nimmersatt" Fb 6c+ |
Also the boulders in the sector Beach along the river can be struck by a flood (June 2016):
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The "Riverbed", literally! |
"Grit de Luxe" a bit different, the mantle ledge at rubber-raft-level |
The "Wizard" shortly before swallowing water |
Some good problems, very blocky and a labyrinth. Along the access path there are some nice easier problems with a good landing in the meanwhile.
The big hit in the sector is the sitting start to "Muttertag": "Mystic Stylez"
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Ulrich Röker "Filmriss" Fb 5c |
Ulrich Röker "Big Cheese" Fb 6c |
Ulrich Röker "Emotion of Trenker" Fb 3c |
Best to take the path uphill at Dinos don't Dyno's. This sector really deserves his name "mainsector". You will find many problems close together here, but not many easy stuff.
Ultra classics are "Stressman", "Heb da Arsch", "Zilliman", "James Bong", "Valentines Day" and many more. Furthermore there are some show-stoppers like "Octopussy", "Jacks Broken Heart", "Sofasurfer", "High Spirit", "Voigas" etc. to be found, not to forget the great "New Base Line"!
Photos Haupt 1
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Kim Marschner "Foxy Lady" Fb 8a |
Manuel Oberfrank "Wonderboy" Fb 5b |
Manuel Oberfrank "Airborn" Fb 6a+ |
Harald Röker "Söffeli SD" Fb 6c |
Harald Röker "Joyride" Fb 5c |
Markus Köcheler "Octopussy" Fb 8a |
Harald Röker "Gardening" Fb 6b |
Markus Köcheler trying "Sofasurfer" Fb 8a/a+ |
Kim Marschner "Sofasurfer" Fb 8a/a+ |
Photos Haupt 2
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Harald Röker "Heb da Arsch Fb 6c+/7a |
Harald Röker "Stressman" Fb 7a |
Ulrich Röker "Rail-Road" Fb 4a |
Harald Röker "James Bong" Fb 7a+/b |
Harald Röker "Valentines Day" Fb 7a+/b |
Harald Röker "Osmoose" Fb 5b |
Harald Röker "Mimoose" Fb 6b+ |
Photos Haupt 3
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Harald Röker "High Spirit" Fb 8a+/b |
Markus Köcheler "Voigas" Fb 8a+ |
Harald Röker "Zilliman" Fb 7a |
Above the right part of the sector Haupt. A small sector with only a few problems. The highlights here are "Swizz Beats", "Jack the Chipper" (formerly "Die Welle"), "Steppenwolf" and "Believe in two", so mainly to be recommended for the higher grades.
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Harald Röker "Mordssprung" Fb 7a+ |
Far, far is the way, but also here are some titbits to be found such as "Gina Wild", "Stairway to Heaven", "Fliegen erlaubt" and also the incredibly hard "Somewhere in between"
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Ulrich Röker "Gina Wild" Fb 6c |
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